Tartan weight

[Maclachlan]

Here's one for those in the know...I am going to be ordering a new kilt and want it in the Maclachlan Weathered but the only weight I can find it in is 10 oz. by Lochcarron. The Maclachlan Modern is also on my list but I love the looks of the weathered version!

Does anyone out there have a kilt made with the lighter 10 ounce wool and, if so, how do you like it compared to the heavier weight materials?

[ForresterModern]

Not familiar with anybody else who weaves MacLachlan in weathered other than Lochcarron. Weathered colorway tartans seem to be one of their specialties that nobody else does to the same degree. You may be able to get the same tartan custom woven in a heavier weight if you contact the company directly, or check with DC Dalgleish who also does frequent custom weaves. However, no guarantees about what the color palette will look like with the customs, unless you specifically ask for thread samples in advance of ordering.

I love some of the weathered tartans---very distinctive. You might also consider the Muted MacLachlan available in 13oz from House of Edgar, as it is a somewhat similar non-Modern palette of the same tartan, again same pattern in different more, well, muted colors. Like Lochcarron with weathered versions, House of Edgar seems to specialize in their Muted versions.

Personally I own a few 13 oz 8yd kilts and the rest almost all 16 oz 8yd kilts. I do not own any 10 oz, and doubt that I would personally order one, as I feel that the 13 oz tartan is about as lightweight a fabric as I would want to try in a kilt. I do not like the 13 oz as much as the 16 oz---just not enough weight and substance for my preference, but some tartans are only avaialbe stock in specific wieghts, so you are either stuck with what you can get stock or have to go the custom weave route if you want heavier. I have three custom woven tartans, one in 13 from Dalgleish, one in 16 from Strathmore, and one in 16 from Dalgleish, all of which are superb quality materials that make fine kilts.

Good luck with your quest.

jeff

[Maclachlan]

Thanks Jeff. I am looking at the muted versions as an option for the same reasons you mentioned in that the ten ounce just doesn't seem to be enough material weight to allow for that swing versus, well, whatever it is a lightweight wool does when one moves about!

This may well sound chauvinistic and I certainly don't mean for it to, but I had always heard that the ten ounce fabrics were pretty much used for the ladies side of things (hostess dresses and such) but have never read that in the kilt manual!

[Barb T]

I made an Air Force tartan kilt in 10 oz Strathmore for my daughter when she started Air Force ROTC quite a few years ago. It does not make a very good kilt - wrinkles like the dickens and feels like a skirt. I've since had a custom weave in 16 oz done, and that's the kilt she has now. The old 10 oz kilt went to a Highland dancer, and, even for her, it's a little "flippy". I'd pick a different tartan, or have something custom woven, long before I'd make another kilt in 10 oz.

[Schiehallion]

The 10 oz is very lightweight and more suitable for a very hot climate or here in the UK as a tartan weight for highland dance competitions. Also it is often used for a plaid for a lady.
As a kilt it would not hang nor keep its pleats or swing as well as a 13 or better still 16oz wool worsted. In your part of the world a lighter weight might be ok. What do our colonial brothers think?

I have a 16oz Weathered Hunting Leslie so there are mills which can do less common weathered and muted tartans.

[RockyR]

Just as a point of clarification, Lochcarron's site lists the MacLachlan Old in weathered colors on their Strome (16 oz) cloth page:

http://lochcarron.com/tartanstrome/maclachlan_old.html

If you'd like a kilt in MacLachlan Weathered in 16 oz, it is possible from anyone who carries Lochcarron cloth (including us ).

[Maclachlan]

Just as a point of clarification, Lochcarron's site lists the MacLachlan Old in weathered colors on their Strome (16 oz) cloth page:

http://lochcarron.com/tartanstrome/maclachlan_old.html

If you'd like a kilt in MacLachlan Weathered in 16 oz, it is possible from anyone who carries Lochcarron cloth (including us ).

I did know that they could weave it for me but it all comes down to the money aspect of the whole affair. I prefer, by all means 16 ounce material and 8 yard kilts solely for the look and feel but am certainly open to 13 ounce and/or 5 yard to keep costs down. I saw on your site that the muted from House of Edgar is one of the ones offered and that was a strong second so, as soon as I can get the wife to free up some funds for me then you'll most likely get the order.

I made an Air Force tartan kilt in 10 oz Strathmore for my daughter when she started Air Force ROTC quite a few years ago. It does not make a very good kilt - wrinkles like the dickens and feels like a skirt. I've since had a custom weave in 16 oz done, and that's the kilt she has now. The old 10 oz kilt went to a Highland dancer, and, even for her, it's a little "flippy". I'd pick a different tartan, or have something custom woven, long before I'd make another kilt in 10 oz.

The term 'flippy' was exactly the word I had in mind when I first asked this question! Glad I'm not alone in that!

[M. A. C. Newsome]

In a full eight yard kilt, the 10 oz does ok, but it's not ideal. I would say order it only if:
1) you are really committed to having that tartan, and having a custom weave is not within your budget
2) you are fine with the fact that it will be a light weight kilt

One of the differences between a light and heavy weight kilt I have found is that the light weight wool tends to wrinkle a lot easier and so you'll have to press the kilt much more often. I hardly ever have to repress the pleats in my heavy weight kilts.

And regarding No. 1 above, have you considered all your options as far as a custom weave of the tartan? If you go with a lower yardage kilt, it does not have to be that much more expensive.

I don't know where you plan on ordering your kilt from, or what price you were quoted, but just for the sake of comparison, at the Scottish Tartans Museum gift shop, our 10 oz light weight 8 yard kilts start at $475. While a 16 oz custom weave 8 yard kilt is $770, you can have a four yard box pleated kilt in custom woven heavy weight cloth for only $495, which is only $20 more than the 8 yard kilt in light weight cloth.

If you look at my personal kilt making page, on the order form, on the right hand side, you'll see a price breakdown of the various styles of kilt I offer, with prices shown for custom weaves:
http://newhousehighland.com/kilt_order_form.php

Between getting the tartan you want and getting the weight you want, the most important of the two issues is the tartan, in my opinion. However, there is really no reason not to have both, so long as you can budget the bit of extra expense for the custom weave.

I just wanted to make sure you explore all your options and ultimately end up with a kilt that you are really happy with.

[seanachie]

While a 16 oz custom weave 8 yard kilt is $770, you can have a four yard box pleated kilt in custom woven heavy weight cloth for only $495, which is only $20 more than the 8 yard kilt in light weight cloth.

Just to piggyback on Matt's comments, a 4 yard box pleat in heavy weight cloth is a wonderful kilt (and for the sake of transparency Matt did not make mine). Currently mine is the only wool kilt I own (though I have a second on order). I wore mine to a symphony season opening last weekend and got many compliments. And for all the naysayers nary a comment about it not being 8 yard knife pleated. It is extremely comfortable, the weight feels substantive and has decent swing. Not to mention, as Matt mentioned, it offers better affordability which was an issue for me.

[M. A. C. Newsome]

Rocky,

You are correct, Lochcarron does offer the MacLachlan Old in the 16 oz, and that would be a nice choice for the kilt. But I believe what the OP is looking for is the standard MacLachlan tartan in the weathered/reproduction colors.