A Question About Future Purchases

[bman]

I have made several post regarding a future kilt purchase and it was suggested that I post to ask the different affiliated makers/owners about what I want in my kilt and get the information directly from them, so here it goes.

I want a kilt for myself that is a reward for once I lose weight, prolly 4-8 months. This kilt is going to be a everyday and multipurpose kilt. For instance I would like to use it hiking or going to a business casual event. Is this a possibility? I am wanting it to be non-tartan for now. I am wanting pockets, most likely cargo style. Pleat choice is completely open for discussion so please give me feedback and information on that. I would like to ask what other things would you suggest? What do your kilts have to offer in these areas? Help me to be a good customer as well as a great kilt wearer. I do plan on purchasing many kilts in the future and I love knowing about my investment, no bit of information is too minuscule. Well as long as it is in a form I can understand.

Thanks for your time,

Brandon

[The Wizard of BC]

Well let's see. I guess the first thing you have to know is that I'm rather biased.

I started the design for Freedom Kilts using a Traditional as my basis. My kilts have pleats that look, hang and swish as much like a Tradional as the fabric allows.

I'm also the guy to coin the phrase "Contemporary Kilt" to describe that my kilts include the stabilizer and interfacing found on Traditional Kilts to keep the stress of wearing them off the stitching yet are made of machine washable fabrics.

If you have been on my site you know that I offer 5 models of kilt. The difference with mine however is that the thing that characterizes the different models is not the pockets. It is the pleats.

My Cargo Model has wide, 1.5" pleats for a rugged look.
My Casual is exactly the same but with narrow 1" pleats for a refined look.
My Dress model also has 1" pleats but the apron is full width and it is fastened with Straps & Buckles.
Then there is my Box-Pleat Model. OK, I know, it's not on the website. The photos are done I just have to get my web guy to make the changes.
And of course the Tartan Model. Wool, P/V and almost any registered Tartan.

I offer 35 in stock fabrics to choose from. The range from 65% Polyester/35% Cotton similar to dockers pants, through the 100%Cottons for those who just must have all natural fibers, to the Work Weights which are duck canvas similar to the brand name Carhartt. And of course the largest collection of Camo fabrics that I know of.

Then comes my speciality. The Pockets. I offer six different pocket options.
Side Slash Pockets which are almost invisible hidden in the pleats.
Rear Welt Pockets for your wallet.
Side Cargro Pockets.
Rear Cargo Pockets.
Detachable Side Cargo Pockets.
And the Under-Apron Pocket.

My thinking is "If your never going to use a pocket, why pay for it?"

And then there is the fact that every kilt we sell is custom made to each customers specifications right here in my shop.

So far you have pretty general in your questions and requirements. If there is anything specific you would like to ask I can be reached here on the forum or if you have skype on your computer give me a call. thewizarofbc
That way we can talk face to face and I can pull a kilt off the rack and show you what I'm talking about.

[bman]

Thank you for the reply. I have been general because I do not fully know exactly what I want since this will be my first kilt. Also I don't know what to be picky about. Unfortunately I have limited access to net other than on my cellphone so can not do video on skype, just voice.

Questions: The stabilizer and interfacing, dies that mean the kilt will feel different on the inside? Does that make it real thick? Is that good or bad in your opinion?

What does the box pleat look like? Is it good for a everyday kilt made out of duck cloth with side cargo pockets and a rear welt pocket?

I have been told that some people have issues with the narrow apron of some modern style kilts, is that an issue with your contemporary kilts?

[Bugbear]

You should ask The Wizard of BC about "steeking" and the long term effect on pleat hang.

[bman]

You should ask The Wizard of BC about "steeking" and the long term effect on pleat hang.

Alright TheWizardofBc, what would your answer be?

[The Wizard of BC]

Well, the Word steeking comes from the Gaelic. It means "to stitch".

In a Traditional Kilt there is a line of stitching at about the hip line. It is inside the kilt and most never know it is there but its purpose is to hold the pleats and support the weight of them to insure the pleats always hang straight and parallel.

As far as I know I am the only person making non-traditional kilts who includes as line of steeking into the design of their kilts.

I found that this one simple line of stitching makes all the difference in the world in how the kilt hangs and swishes. Leave it out and the pleats sag causing curling of the edges and a "stage curtian effect" of ripples to the pleats.

Because Freedom Kilts are machine sewn the Steeking line is visible. Some have called it the FK pantie line.

The Steeking in addition to the stabilizer and interfacing, which take up the stress of strapping the kilt on and wearing it, create in an FK a look and swish that I have never seen in another modern kilt. It also means that the stitching of the pleats in the Fell (or where the pleats are sewn down and tapered) are never under stress. I have never had the stitching in the Fell fail on one of my kilts. I have had some of my very early kilts come back to the shop for alterations or just to visit and all the stitching is as good as on the day they were made six or seven years ago.

[The Wizard of BC]

To answer your question about aprons perhaps the best way to explain is to show you some pictures.

One of my customers is a member here and he has two almost identical kilts in different fabrics.

This is his Tartan Model.

The back...




And the front....




Looks like a full Traditional Kilt doesn't it?

Now compare the Tartan Model with this Dress Model in ACU digital Camo.

The back...




And the front...



Notice that the aprons are almost identical in width and shape. Yes, they are both tapered left and right.

Notice also how there is no Pleat Kick or edges of the aprons or pleats which stick out at wierd angles.

Some will tell you that narrow aprons allow them to fall between your legs when sitting. It is my experience that generous deep and reverse pleats do the job much better than a narrow apron.

As to the back of the kilt being thick... Well, look at the rear shots of these two kilts. does it look thick?

[bman]

This is definately the type of information I am looking for. Now you mentioned box pleat? Can you give me some information about that?

[The Wizard of BC]

The Box Pleat Model is essentially the same construction as all my other kits. The pleats are just different.


This one is in Duck Canvas like you asked about.








Yes, the 100% Cotton fabrics do require ironing to retain the crisp edges and keep them wrinkle free. that is a characteristic of the fabric, not the construction.



As to the stabilizer and interfacing adding to the thickness of the back of the kilt. The answer is no. it does not add to the thickness because they are not behind the Fell of the Kilt as in a Traditional. I had to move them to accomodate the Side Slash pockets. It's sort of a trade secret how I did it.

I have some other secrets that I won't release here. Like how I manage to create a Rear Welt Pocket that will take a 2" thick wallet and never show "wallet bulge" and place it so you never sit on your wallet pinching your sciatic nerve.
I also can hide the Side Slash Pockets in the pleats so that even when full of my pipe, lighter, house keys, tobacco pouch and coin purse they never show a bulge.

[The Wizard of BC]

See, I told you that you would get more information than you thought you ever needed.