https://www.mccalls.co.uk/media/prod...coat-set-3.jpg

That picture shows the problem I have with pleating to the sett. The white stripe makes it look off-center.
Even if you get it centered in the middle strap, if you gain or lose weight, the stripe will drift right or left.
The way I see, it I've got 3 options.
1. Convince myself that I don't care and stop staring at the center stripe.
2. Stick with pleating to the stripe.
3. Only pleat to the sett when the sett doesn't contain an eye-catching stripe.