Quote Originally Posted by Warhoover View Post
... possibly a knife pleat trad. or a military box pleated ( does the mil box pleat require more yardage?)...
Short answer: No, the yardage requirement is the same as any other pleat-to-stripe.

Longer answer: Military box pleats are generally constructed at one per sett. The tartans usually used by the military are 18 to 22 oz and have fairly large setts, so the pleat depth is good. Smaller setts on lighter fabric would produce shallower depths.

The sett of the XMarks tartan (14 oz, run #2) was about 6 7/8 inches, and Steve Ashton is "guessing" this sett (16 oz, run #3) at 7 1/8 inches. This is smaller than the 8-9-10-inch setts of the tartans usually pleated in mil-box.

With knife pleats and 1-inch reveals, pleat depth would be approx. 3 inches. Turn back the knife edge into 1-inch mil-boxes, and the measured pleat depth drops to 2 inches - sort of. But the expansion of the pleats during movement, and the manner in which they move, is very different than a knife pleat with a 2-inch depth.

I need to do a little more investigation (read: test pleating) to see if a 7-inch sett in 16 oz tartan will be satisfactory.