I read through all the posts three times before the penny dropped as to what this is.

It is a box pleat, not the three layer 'simple' nor the five layers of the same size version - it is, as I count them, a variant of the five layer with three layers the same size and the inner two layers extended to cover two pleats.

Sort of a box pleat and knife pleat combined.

I can 'see' it now - but the thing would be to make one.

Just to be sure that I have it clear, for the standard male pattern, the longer back fold - that is the same orientation as the single pleat of a knife pleated kilt, and would point towards the back on the left and the front on the right?

I wonder if I can adapt it to a Kinguisse style and not go mad in the process? No need to answer that, I think I lost the plot some time ago.

I do have some not really a tartan fabric, which has a nice stripe in it though - I must have a go just to see if I can do it.

Reducing in size would require the inner workings to be removed and the individual pleats in the fell made narrower - I think I might make this kilt several inches too small for me at the moment, by the time I finish it it will probably fit.

Ah the joy of kilt making - just when you think you have really got a handle on it someone adds a whole extra dimension.